Bottle service patrons.
Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto prepares incredibly fresh Japanese as only he can, while Steven Starr builds a dramatically designed restaurant as only he can. The menu ranges from a 20 oz. rib eye, to sushi, to ramen noodles, to abalone, to pickled vegetables, to...I think you get the picture.
Sometimes when in the Meat Packing you need a restaurant to stand up to the thump of the incessant beat and express its integrity, and have a beat of its own.